A.F. VANDERVORST READY-TO-WEAR SPRING-SUMMER 2016, PARIS FASHION WEEK

A.F.Vandevorst spring-summer collection by An Vandevorst & Filip Arickx was presented by them on 1 of October in Paris. For almost 20 years the designer duo An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx have created a clear signature in their women’s ready to wear collections. I should be noted that, as is every time the originality of the approach to the organization of the show. It is always a mini-performance. This time with the help of bikes and girls in helms. Muse of designers layers poor and precious textiles in embellished draping grounded by elements of motocross uniform and military men’s wear.
The main theme of collection is swirling within a postmodern landscape of urban and historical significance, archetypes of eastern and western dress are reinterpreted in both pure and eclectic silhouettes instilled with rock spirit. The languid ease of a sari, cheongsam, and kimono are explored in swathes of embossed reptilian satin and foiled oriental jacquards – their traditions subverted by a rounded shoulder, zipped necklines, dramatic pleats or perfect details. Designers broke the strict silhouette, the slim line of biker trousers, the mao jacket, or an evening column gown are embedded with chinese “miao” applique and the “shisha” mirror embroidery of India, in contrast with the subtle elegance of pyjama tailoring in matte striped cotton silk. Twisting the European heritage of military regalia, ornamental frogging adorns tailored coats in washed silk or aluminium cotton – the latter rendered sculptural in papery layers of white-on-white.

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