LA MODE RETROUVEE PALAIS GALLIERA, PARIS

The Palais Galliera presented the fabulous wardrobe of Countess Greffulhe, Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay at the exhibition (Rediscovered Fashion) from 7 of November to 20 of March in Paris. The exposition culls fashion treasures from the museum’s archives, including some 50 dresses from its collection bearing such labels as Worth, Fortuny, Babani, Lanvin and Nina Ricci. The fashions are supplemented with films, photographs and music tracks plus papers describing her trousseau, identification card and even last will and testament, also madame, worker of museum will be accompany with very interesting comments.
Countess Greffulhe was born Princess Mary, Josephine, Anatole, Louise Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay 11 of JulyJuly 1860 in Paris. Her father is the 18th Prince of Chimay and her mother was born Marie Joséphine de Montesquiou-Fezensac. She received a refined cultural education. The countess became particularly influential and occupied an outstanding position wordly after her marriage to the extremely wealthy Count Henry Greffulhe, raising funds, producing and promoting operas, sponsoring science and even dipping into politic. It is precisely for this reason that history will forget in the cataloging rather quickly to the women’s department of the world brainless. They forget that it has completed a number of extraordinary things, for the arts, especially music, and science: this friend of Rodin and Marie Curie was a fund raiser before the hour, raising funds to organize shows, encourage basic research. Countess Greffulhe considered one of the most elegant ladies of his time, alongside the artists in vogue. Marcel Proust was inspired by the countess for her character of the Duchess of Guermantes.
Countess Greffulhe knew the whole earth, all royalty and the elite of Europe, as well as luminaries of politics. She was a friend of Georges Clemenceau, Blum who called her “the Oracle”, Aristide Briand, Joseph Caillaux, and many others. She handed Wagner to honor, sponsored Faure, supported the Russian Ballet, promoted the work of Edouard Branly, found funding for Radium Institute. She had a genius for public relations, the gift to bring together the right people at the right time. By creating the company of the great musical auditions, she made the connection between musicians and socialites, some of which, with vast fortunes, could finance the concerts and fill theaters. All Paris dreamed of being received as a mythical mansion in the Rue d’Astorg, in the eighth arrondissement, nicknamed “the Vatican”.

La Comtesse Greffulhe dans une robe de bal. Papier albuminé, vers 1887. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

La comtesse Greffulhe, née Elisabeth de Caraman-Chimay (1860-1952), portant la robe aux lis créée pour elle par la maison Worth. Photographie de Paul Nadar (1856-1939). 1896. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Dimensions : avec cadre : 52,5 x 40 cm ; image seule : 29 x 16,8 cm

Charles Fréderic Worth (1825-1895). “Robe du soir portée par la Comtesse Greffulhe, vers 1896 – forme princesse, décolletée, velours noir, soie, broderie de perles, incrustations de lys blancs, revers de satin blanc, volant cranté en bas”. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Charles-Frederick Worth (1825-1895). Tea gown. Velours ciselé bleu foncé sur fond de satin vert. Dentelle de Valenciennes. Doublure en taffetas changeant vert et bleu, vers 1897. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Charles Fréderic Worth (1825-1895). Robe byzantine portée par la Comtesse Greffulhe pour le mariage de sa fille, 1904 – Taffetas lamé, soie et filé or, tulle de soie, application de paillettes. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Manteau du soir. Lamé or ; broderies de paillettes, de tubes bleus, et de perles bleues. Lacet de fils métalliques. Vers 1925. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Ensemble du soir (boléro, robe et fond). Boléro : lamé or et vert, dentelle dorée ; doublure en crêpe de soie rose. Robe : Dentelle métallique aux fuseaux, en fils de soie jaunes dorés et filés métalliques. Dentelle métallique aux fuseaux, en fils de soie noirs et filés métalliques argentés . Tulle de soie beige brodé de filés métalliques dorés. Fond : Lamé doré en filés métalliques et fils de soie turquoise. Vers 1925. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Nina Ricci. Ensemble du soir (robe et boléro). Sergé de soie noire et crème. Mousseline de soie crème et noire. Plumes d’autruche. Vers 1937. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946). Robe du soir, natté noir recouvert de tulle noir, tarlatane noire. Griffe : Jeanne Lanvin – Paris, été 1937. Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Greffulhe 6

Greffulhe 32

Share this post: on Twitter on Facebook on Google+